The Science of Surfing

In the search for perfect waves, most life-long surfers develop a deep understanding of the sciences around surfing, and its lifestyle.  From meteorology and oceanography, to physics and physical geography, 90% of surfing is exactly that... a knowledge of the sciences that make it such a beautiful sport and way of life.

Recommended Ages: 5-12th Grade

Recommended Number of Credits: 5 credits

1. Ocean Conditions
       1.1 Swell
       1.2 What you Love
       1.3 Ocean Currents
       1.4 Seasonal Patterns
       1.5 Forecasting with Technology: Surfline, Tide Apps, etc.
2. Weather
       2.1 Wind
       2.2 The Water Cycle
       2.3 Cloud Types
       2.4 Natural Air Conditioning - Beach Towns
3. Beaches & Coastlines
       3.1 Coastal Landforms
       3.2 Reefs ad Sandbars
       3.3 Sand Drift
       3.4 Sheltered Beaches
       3.5 River Mouths (Bacteria Count)
4. Waves
       4.1 Lefts, Rights, & A-Frames
       4.2 Beach Breaks & Reef Breaks
       4.3 Closeouts and Channels
       4.4 Longboard Waves
       4.5 Shortboard Waves
       4.6 Big Waves
5. Surfboard Design & Physics
       5.1 Length & Volume
       5.2 Rails & Tails
       5.3 Fins and Noses
       5.4 Rocker & Bottom Countours
       5.5 Friction
6. Surfing
       6.1 Function vs. Show
       6.2 The Bottom Turn
       6.3 Cutbacks & Roundhouses
       6.4 Airs & Floaters
       6.5 Hitting the Lip & Getting Barreled